.png)
I'm going to take an educated guess and say less than 2% of those overly opinionated keyboard warriors quick to comment “that's not real pizza” every time someone posts a pic of anything that doesn’t resemble a traditional NY Style pie, have never actually been to Naples Italy. And even then, those same connoisseurs would likely shit on a photo of an authentic Margherita from L’Antica de Michele if they didn’t realize where it was from. It’s our innate human nature though admittedly it seems a bit more intensified in the Northeast. We like what we know, and we mock what we don't. But just because something doesn’t look like what you grew up eating, or it has a ridiculously thin, cracker crust, with sweet sauce and is topped with a processed ooey, gooey, smoky cheese that melts like velvet, doesn’t make it a bad pizza. It makes it St Louis Style, one of over 40 uniquely different, perfectly real American styles of pizza worthy of consumption.
Provel: The Lou's Hometown Queso
Provel is quintessential St Louis and is as iconic as the Budweiser Brewery and the sprawling Gateway Arch welcoming you to the Show Me State. Locals adore it, outsiders misunderstand it and despite what you may have heard, this Frankencheese wasn't invented in a lab by a mad scientist. It was the birthchild of an Italian grocer in collaboration with a Wisconsin Dairy who blended Swiss, provolone and cheddar along with a hint of liquid smoke to make this infamous cheese. But it was Imo's Pizzeria that made Provel go viral before viral was a thing. When Ed and Margie Imo opened their first pizza parlor on The Hill in 1964, they used mozzarella. It was a new chef that replaced the traditional cheese with the neighborhood Provel. The pizzaiolo recognized the low melting point gave the pizza a smooth, creamy spread that coated the saucy, crispy, unleavened crust perfectly. The more popular Imo's became, the more cheese was needed which resulted with them ultimately acquiring Costa Grocery and their distribution. Nowadays the cheese can be found in in blocks, shredded or pre-sliced in St Louis area grocery stores or as an ingredient on menus throughout The Lou. Fried sticks with tomato sauce are a popular appetizer. Many sandwiches use the cheese for its gooey melt, and it's often drizzled on top of salads. It's also the main ingredient in Ruma's Deli local classic, the Gerber Special, a would be sandwichigenous if they didn't trademark the name and likeness therefore stifling its place in history (more on that in a future post- or maybe a longwinded podcast discussion, debating whether trademarking a food actually lessens its culinary relevance)
It's Not Just the Cheese that Makes it Unique
As if the Provel isn't polarizing enough, St Louis Style is a much more complicated pizza, leading to further cries of it not being "real". There is no yeast used in the dough prep, so when it's stretched to a super thin 1/8" on an inch or less, it could basically be a giant nacho. The super crispy crust is also completely topped with sauce, cheese and toppings leaving it no discernable crust to grab on to. Additionally, the pizza is cut into bitesize squares a la a Midwest Tavern pie or Chicago's "other pizza". The pies also tend to come in various sizes; small (think personal), medium, large and extra-large- the latter being a traditional 16" New York Pie size. The crust often cooks to a crisp quicker than the toppings, leaving a "bite' to the onions and peppers- I actually appreciate this al dente crunch very much! With over 100 different Imo's, the chain is absolutely responsible for spreading the unique style's popularity but be aware, not all franchises are as consistent as others. Do your due diligence and research. But the city is full of mom-and-pop pizza spots known for their delicious versions and legions of passionate St Louis Eats foodies. Check out Failoni's Brick Oven pizza or head out to the burbs for a "Jerry Special" at Pirrone's Florrisant Mo to name a few.
Trust me, once you accept Provel, expect to easily scarf down a whole pie yourself. The cracker crust will help justify your gluttony. Yes, it's different. Very different, but St Louis Style pizza is absolutely pizza and needs to be on your culinary bucket list.
Comments